Belleza Argentina

A historic church in Buenos Aires’ Recoleta neighborhood

The sun rose over the Argentinean horizon as we descended upon Buenos Aires.  CO Flight 53 connecting Phoenix from Houston was a breeze, departing at 10 p.m. and arriving at 6:20 a.m. the next morning.  Chenin Blanc and Bordeaux accompanied dinner, I was able to rest well and the service was excellent.  It was nice to have Continental back in the Star Alliance and now I felt comfortable flying with them.  Consolidating air miles with one alliance is a must.  Just watch the movie, “Up in the air” and you’ll understand.  The standard issue toiletry bag comes in handy on these flights.  A quick brush of the teeth, a fold-up brush through my hair, some lip balm, and it was time to clear customs.

International arrival in Buenos Aires is at the Ezeiza (EZE) Airport.  Connecting to Mendoza made it necessary to get over to the J. Newbery Airport (AEP) where most domestic flights operate.  I met my friend, Robert, at the international arrivals hall, who landed about the same time from Europe.  Almost an hour car ride and we were at AEP.  Just something to remember, when traveling in Argentina.

Mendoza’s airport was small and quaint. Just one baggage claim carousel brought our bags.  Bags in hand, we were off to meet our friend, David, who flew from the other direction in Australia, via Santiago.  We were off on our Argentinean adventure.

It’s Robert that brings adventure to our lives.  He organized a 3-day horse backing trek into the Andes Mountains for us.  These excursions come natural to Robert.  I don’t know that I would have ever planned to do this on a holiday.  After the trip, however, I don’t think I could ever not share this trip with someone else.  It was spectacular.

Our guide picked us up and we drove 90 minutes West where we were to meet the horses at the base of the Andes.  We were provided a list of essential provisions to bring with us – a sleeping bag, wide brimmed hat, pants for riding, a refillable water bottle, etc.  Only day time necessities were placed in our saddle bags, and the rest of our stuff were loaded on two pack mules for the trek.

Our guide, Veronica, originally from France, led the way on the two hour journey across the desert toward the Andes. 

The horses belonged to our Gaucho (the equivalent to an American Cowboy), Julio, who brought up the rear.

David, Robert, and I were joined by to others – Pedro, on holiday from Buenos Aires, and Hayley, from Perth who was traveling the World.  So, the seven of us on horseback joined by two pack mules, set off on our ride.  One freeloader, an eight month old Donkey, named Caramel, also joined in for the adventure.  We came to affectionately call her PITA – for “pain in the ass,” since she would stop in the middle of the trail on steep embankments holding up our entire convey while she decided to graze.

We came to an oasis in the desert where a mountain stream supported the natural grasses. 

The horses were able to get a drink and graze while we had a sandwich and talked about the gorgeous scenery.  After a short siesta in the shade under a tree, we were off into the foothills of the Andes.

Photo ops were everywhere.  So I shifted between holding on to the Reins to reaching for my digital camera on my belt. 

We had begun to slowly ascend in the foothills and this reminded me a lot of the beautiful Sonoran desert where I live in Arizona.

 

Six hours on horseback isn’t something that I’m used to, so it was relieving to finally stop for the night in a canyon selected by our guide.  David agreed.  We unsaddled the horses while Julio unpacked the mules and set up camp for the night.  The horses grazed for the evening and I took the opportunity to fill my water bottle from the mountain stream.  The purity and freshness of the cool water made me appreciate the wilderness.

Veronica taught us each how to make our beds for the night.  Using the horse saddle as our pillow and the horse blankets and sheep skins would serve as our mattress.   With my bed made, and the campfire set, it was time for some Valencia Family Malbec and conversation about the days events.  It was the best $3.00 bottle of wine I had ever tasted!

Amazingly, night time can be just as incredible as daylight when you’re in the mountains, away from the lights of the city.  Staring up at the night sky was the milky way, like I’ve never seen so clearly.  The Southern Cross, my favorite constellation pokes out vividly and I must have counted over a dozen shooting stars.  How staring up at the sky can bring entertainment can only be appreciated in a setting like this.

With daybreak upon us, it was time to saddle up and continue our journey.

The horses knew this path.  They had done this before.  Sometimes single file, other times, in competition to take the lead, we would pass one another.

The scenery was spectacular, and we couldn’t have asked for any better weather.

The hills were steep as we climbed up to 10,000 ft.  Sometimes, I looked down and thought to myself, if this horse slips, I’m dead.  Robert reassured me that horses have better proprioception than us because of their four legs, allowing them to recover.  The smirk behind his smile made me wonder if I should believe him.

 

Robert attempts to convince himself and his horse that he is a horse whisperer.

 

 

David enjoying the ride …

 

 

 

The mountain vistas of the Andes …

 

 

 

 

On the trail, you feel the warmth of the sun on your face as you breathe the crisp thin mountain air.  We, of course, had short conversations during the ride, in the valleys and low lands, but mostly we were alone with our thoughts as we appreciated all of nature’s bounty panoramically surrounding us.   I think we all need time like this to think, create, plan, appreciate, and share.  For me, to be alone with my thoughts for three days had me reaching for my Blackberry to write notes about new ideas so I wouldn’t forget, and later journal to my kids so they know what I’m thinking and what I want for them in this life.Putting in about 7 hours per day on the horses was exhilarating, refreshing, and new.  Our guide estimated that we traveled about 55 miles on horseback.  Not bad for some amateur riders.

Our Gaucho, Julio, looks after the horses, pack mules, and us all.  This is the Argentina he knows.

As we rode back out of the mountains on the last day of our trek, we had the wonderful memories of this trip and the eagerness to now get back to civilization and hit the Mendoza wine trail!

Our small villa at Casa Glebinias in Chacras De Coria, outside of Mendoza was a gem of a find.  This well manicured retreat would be our camp for the next three days as we visited the wine farms.

Our first stop – Achaval Ferrer – founded recently in 1998, from an Italian-Argentinean  partnership, these wines have achieved acclaimed scores by wine critics which has been responsible for some sold out wines.  What a nice problem to have.

The winery has a really cool crush pad design on two stories. 

There couldn’t have been a better time to tour the property.  It was harvest time, and there was a buzz with fruit being brought in from the fields, de-stemming and crush taking place, and juice being pumped into the fermenting tanks.  I was in my glory.

Hand sorting cabernet sauvignon at Achaval Ferrer at the 2010 harvest, March 25, 2010

This was a quaint yet impressive operation. Concrete tanks, hand sorted grapes, and hand-labeling all gave the feel of quality and caring.

I picked up a couple of bottles of their Cabernet Sauvignon for my cellar which made an impression on me during the tasting.

Our next stop was Ruca Malen also recently founded in 1998.

We were a bit early for our tour and took the opportunity to have a look in the vineyard.   The malbec clusters were ready to come off the vine.

This is what I call “low hanging fruit.”

After our tour of the property, lunch was served on the terrace of a garden house with the views amidst the vineyards and the backdrop of the Andes. A five-course lunch with pairings was enjoyed as we relaxed and enjoyed the glorious day.

Speaking of food, that evening we secured a reservation  at Francis Mallmann’s 1884 Restaurante.  Many reviews have touted 1884 as the best restaurant in South America.  We couldn’t resist getting a booking to see for ourselves.

As we were about to place our order, Robert suggested we have a look at the meats being grilled on the open fire – Tuscan style.  This helped with our selections.  David selected a a local Chardonnay for us to enjoy with our starters, followed by a stunning Malbec from the Uco Valley to enjoy with our beef mains.  The 1500 meter elevation of this region produces delicate and slow ripening fruit that David felt was analogous to his Avon Brae vineyard in Australia’s Eden Valley.

Argentinean beef being prepped for the outdoor grill at the open kitchen of Francis Mallmann’s 1884 Restaurante in Mendoza

The meal and wines were terrific and another enjoyable evening was had.

The next day, we had a 10:00 a.m. appointment at Catena Zapata.  A Wine Advocate Robert Parker score of 98 for their 2005 Bordeaux Blend perhaps put their wines on the map.  Just one visit to their property, and you can be assured of quality.  It is all around you. 

Their Mayan inspired estate was incredible, with stone amassed everywhere, inside and out.  A glass tower provides passage to the open air deck on the second story, while the huge open subterranean entrance to the cellar was equally impressive.

 

 

Looking down from the first floor at Catena Zapata.

 

 

 

Looking up to the glass tower …

 

Catena Zapata has a wonderful history, which was shared with us during our tour.  Over a century ago,  in 1898, Nicola Catena immigrated from his native land of Italy to Argentina and planted Malbec in 1902.  The winemaking traditions through the years were passed down through generations as a quest to improve quality and rival the old world wines.  Son, Nicolás Catena, with a PhD in Economics, stopped bulk wine production, and focused on his vision of rivaling the best – something unheard of in this new winemaking region.

In 2001, Nicolás’ daughter, Laura, an ER physician with degrees from Harvard and Stanford, took over the R&D department at the family winery experimenting with planting varietals at high altitudes to stress the vines and improve quality.  The results speak for themselves.

The view from the veranda at Catena Zapata

This was a tough place to leave.

Dinner was at AzaFran, a recommended restaurant serving authentic Argentinean cuisine. 

David and I enjoyed selecting the wines for dinner from the adjacent wine room where the Sommelier answered questions and gave his best advice about our pairings.

Our last day in Mendoza would be spent driving out to the Uco Valley to visit the winery of Andeluna Cellars.

Founded by Ward Lay, as in “Frito-Lay” and “Pepsi Co.”, this place was big and equally impressive.

The vineyard points towards the Andes as the mountains peak above the clouds in the Uco Valley view from Andeluna. 

The private tasting room looks into barrel storage in the Cellar

Robert, who loves to cook, was especially impressed with the open kitchen layout where we had lunch.

Here’s the pairings menu we enjoyed from Chef Pable del Rio:

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Andeluna Bistrot ~ Summer 2010 Menu

First~ Andeluna Torrontes 2008 Trout ceveche with citric meshed potato and sugar cane honey

Second ~ Andeluna Reserve Chardonnay 2006 Baked beetroot capeletti filled with blue cheese and eggplant, carrot juice sauce and fresh herb salad

Third ~ Andeluna Malbec Reserve 2006 Sweet and creamy corn (humita)

Fourth ~ Andeluna Grand Reserve Pasionado 2004 Calf Steak, blackened squash emulsion puree and tomato preserves toasted with olive oil and coffee beans

Fifth ~ Palate cleanser, Fruit Season Popsicle

Sixth ~ Andeluna Chardonnay Reserve 2006 Dulce de leche Flan, Toffey, and saute banana with lime and white chocolate and corn ice cream

We left Mendoza for Buenos Aires, which could be an equally long blog in and of itself.

Buenos Aires is divided into forty-two barrios, meaning neighborhoods.  Each with their own style and flare – from historic and traditional to more eclectic – from high end shops to open air markets – truly, there is something for everyone.  In a city of 13 million people, broad boulevards combine with small walkways giving a unique charm to the city all its own.

Dinner at Estilo Campo combined a great atmosphere, service and traditional Argentinean food.

Other Buenos Aires highlights included a walk through the Cemetery at La Recoleta.  This is a unique resting place was initiated in 1822 and is today regarded as the most relevant historical and artistic monument of Argentina.  Thoughts of Père Lachaise Cemetery, where French philosophers and statesmen join The Doors’ Jim Morrison in the Cemetery in middle of the city.

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Tombs of notable Argentinean families – politicians, writers and poets, military men lie in silence honored by the thousands of Argentine and foreign visitors who enjoy this incredible creation.

It is here that Maria Evita Duarte de Peron, the spiritual leader of Argentina was laid to rest. 

The story of Evita, of course inspired the Andrew Lloyd Webber musical and movie that starred Madonna and Antonio Banderas.

Because of my busy professional life and schedule people often ask me, “what do you do for fun?”  I often respond, “Travel”. 

The history, traditions, cultures, and cuisines of the World are what interest me.  Second to being with my beautiful family, in the vineyards of the World, I’d have to say … this is where I love to be.

Thanks for visiting the lounge.  Until next time …

~Chris